The Weaves

Poplin

 

Our poplins are woven with two fold 100 count cotton, which gives a substantial fabric that is soft but also cool and breathable. The quality cotton and construction we use gives a fabric that gets even better with wearing and washing. Poplin makes up the base of our fabric range and is the smartest and most formal fabric (although it also comes in some pretty informal patterns too!). Poplin is probably what you would think of as “standard” shirt fabric and has that classic crisp characteristic. It is really the only way to go for a smart shirt.

The simple over and under weave has twice as many warp (vertical) yarns as weft yarns. This is so that the coloured vertical yarns used in stripes show up with more prominence; so much so that the stripes look like they are made up entirely of coloured yarns when in fact the horizontal weft yarn is usually white. Because of this, poplins take patterns and colours better than any other weave.

Although our lightest weave, our poplins still have some substance to them and aren’t too thin and transparent like some of cheaper or very high count poplins. They will stand up to a lot of wear and abuse!


End-on-End

End-on-End is a variety of poplin where yarns with a different colour to the base colour (usually white) are interwoven into the fabric. This gives the fabric a slightly textured appearance.


Oxford


Oxfords cover a wide range of fabrics but usually they involve thicker yarns to poplins and each weft or warp yarn passes over at least two yarns.

Oxfords make a great casual shirt and are one or the hardest wearing fabrics. They even look great straight out of the dryer with a few creases in them!

Our standard oxford (above) is made up of two fold 80 yarns woven in a 2×2 weave. This gives a fabric that is very soft and has a slight lustre to it.

As the name suggests our rugged oxford is a thicker and even hardier fabric made using thicker yarns. It is woven with 2×1 weave with a very chunky white weft yarn passing over two relatively thick coloured yarns. This gives a very hard wearing fabric, even if it is not quite as soft as our standard oxford.

Pinpoint or Pinpoint Oxford

The pinpoint oxford is almost a cross between an oxford and a poplin. It is woven using the same two fold 80 yarns as the standard oxford but in a tighter 2×1 weave with a coloured weft yarn passing over two white warp yarns. This gives a fabric that is a little thicker and more textured than a poplin, but lighter and smarter than an oxford.

It is a great crossover shirt that is smart enough to wear to work, but is a little less formal than a poplin.

Twill / herringbone

Twill is a tight weave where the interlacing of the warp and weft progresses from either left to right forming diagonal ridges in the fabric. As each yarn passes over two or more threads, there are less interlacings than poplin meaning that the yarns can be packed more tightly together resulting in a slightly thicker fabric that is warmer but less breathable. It also means that the yarns can move a little more freely against each other so that twill can feel a little softer and more supple than poplin, is more resistant to creasing and easier to iron. The trade-off is that twill doesn’t have that crisp look and cool feel against the skin you get with poplin and it doesn’t take colour and pattern as well as poplin.

You may recognise the diagonal ridges from your jeans or chinos. It is exactly the same weave although with much finer yarns.

Herringbone is just a variation of twill where the direction is changed at regular intervals.

Brushed cotton

Our brushed cotton fabrics are a type of twill where the cotton is brushed during the finishing process raising the fibres to give an extremely soft and slightly furry feel and a bit more bulk.
This together with the relative thickness of the yarns (40s) makes brushed cotton the thickest and warmest of our fabrics. Perfect for a walk in the country.

Royal Oxford

Royal Oxford is a variation of the oxford that is a more formal with a smoother and more lustrous look than the standard Oxford.

Woven with the same two fold 100 yarns as our poplins, the Royal Oxford has a complex basket weave with the weft yarns passing over one two and three of the warp yarns and vice versa. The relatively fewer interlacings of the yarns has a few effects:

It allows the yarns to move more freely and resulting in a softer feel and a great drape.

It produces a smooth and lustrous fabric with a slight sheen.

It allows the yarns to be packed closer to each other giving a tighter weave and a slightly thicker fabric.

General terms

Yarn – Strand of cotton or used for weaving fabric

Warps – The lengthwise threads/yarns that make up a fabric

Wefts – The horizontal threads/yarns that make up a fabric – the wefts are passed through the warps in the weaving process